Fashion L'amour

Christian Astner | Feature |

By Keziah Reed

For this feature edition, I spoke to Christian Astner, a young, pioneering print designer based in Copenhagen, Denmark. I first met Christian several years ago, when he was an intern at Vivienne Westwood in London. Since then, Christian has further developed and refined his skills, specifically focusing on prints and graphics and collaborating with both high-end and high-street brands in Copenhagen.

Christian gives valuable insight into the process of print making, ranging from the difference between natural and synthetic materials, to ensuring the identity of a company is reflected in a particular print. He is meticulous with his methods, and always aims to ensure his work is sustainable. With this in mind, following the fast-fashion phenomenon of Black Friday, I wanted to pry into Christian’s views on sustainability and environmental awareness. Having studied a degree in Sustainable Fashion Design, Christian made some very interesting points, and recommended some great key reading.

Scroll on to uncover what it takes to be a freelance print designer, and to learn more about how Christian’s own fashion ethos helps him to create quality designs.

In your own words, who is Christian Astner? Can you describe the inspiration behind your work, ethos, and your core principles that you aim to apply to your print designs and graphics? 

I am a young, creative professional, always optimistic and ready for a challenge. Personally, I find it super interesting when fashion and politics are combined. Creating statements with a storyline, or a hidden message is super interesting. I always try to incorporate a personal hint in my prints. I always consider if it is something I would wear every day, and if it’s not, then I have to make a new print. 

What made you decide to pursue a career in fashion? Was it something you always wanted to do?

I have always been interested in personal expression. I find it fascinating that no matter what, we always make a choice when we buy stuff. Especially with fashion and the way we represent ourselves. I have been creative since I was very young; always knew that I wanted to do something creative. After studying BA European Business for 1 year, I knew I had to follow my creative dream. I was simply missing being creative too much.

What made you decide to focus on print design?

For me prints are essential. They can bring a whole collection together, and create cohesiveness. I find it so inspiring that you can tell a story through prints. The combination of drawing and graphic design comes together in print design – I think that’s why it fascinates me so much. You can always learn new techniques, methods and improve your work and style. The idea that your print can light up someone’s everyday life makes me super happy. It was a very special feeling the first time I saw one of my prints out on the streets of Copenhagen.

For our readers wanting to know how to get involved in fashion design and print design, can you give us a brief summary of your career so far?

I first studied a BA in Sustainable Fashion in Copenhagen.During my studies, I worked as a design assistant – in the beginning, voluntary, and after 6 months I started getting paid. I have worked in a fabric shop, which gave me great insight into the different materials, weavings and more technical aspects. I was in Berlin for a 6-month internship at Perret Schaad, where I did their prints and knit design.An internship at Vivienne Westwood in London working in the design department gave great insight into a different and more high-end brand. Since then, I have been working freelance for some time, working with different Scandi and international brands, creating print and art direction.Right now, I’ve just started as the main print designer for a Danish Brand.  For everyone wanting to get into the fashion industry, I will say that it requires a lot of effort, the willingness to work for free. Therefore you have to be sure before you choose a creative fashion path.

Your work covers unisex designs, as well as womenswear, menswear, and kidswear. Out of these 4 categories, do you have a preference?

I enjoy being creative. It truly differs a lot, depending on projects. In general, it is fun to dig into different “universes” and create a special feeling. Personally, I am also fascinated with prints and when fashion in general gets fluid, and the line between genders gets blurred.

Tell me about your own fashion sense – what are your wardrobe staples; your favourite items and go-to pieces?

In my wardrobe, I have tried to focus on quality and things that will last, that is easy to style and can compliment one another. I have a few key items that I always turn to:

My oversized Vivienne Westwood shirts that fit great with any outfit. Japanese inspired black pants, hand-made in Denmark from the designer, Kendt Design. Leggings with my own design in recycled polyester made and produced in Denmark.

Do the materials you work with affect the type of print designs you can do? For instance, do you have to take into account that some materials tend to absorb dye/colour better than others?

It depends. In general, synthetic fibers absorb the ink better and therefore can give a more bright look. Where natural fibers like wool & cotton, absorb the ink differently and therefore gives a different look [from synthetic fibers]. Personally, I prefer working with natural fibers like cotton, silk, wool, flax etc, but that’s more because of the texture and the feeling of the fabric. Previously I have also worked with natural dye, using food waste as dye. It was a super interesting project and I wish it was possible to take the technique to a bigger and more commercial scale. But during this process, it was very clear how the different materials reacted on different dyes. It is also very easy to do at home.

With Black Friday having recently occurred, the fashion industry was once again reminded of the issues it faces around sustainability and environmental awareness, with fast fashion being the prime culprit. However, your website states your firm belief in sustainability, and you first attained a BA in Sustainable Fashion Design at the start of your career. What’s your take on sustainability in fashion – how do you try to incorporate it into your work as a freelance designer?

I do care a lot about sustainability, but its a hard balance, especially working as freelance.  In general, I think the term sustainability covers so many different things, from sustainable materials, social sustainability and so on. I find it very helpful to work with the UN’s 17 developing goals as a guideline. Then you create new things and materials it is not sustainable, we should recycle more, buy less and choose more wisely. I am a firm believer that if we educate ourselves and make better decisions the industry will have to change, because the demand is changing. In regards to my work, I try not to focus on fast trends, but instead create beautiful, long-lasting prints that can be mixed with existing wardrobes and styles. This is easily combined, and lasts more than one season.

For general information and insight, I recommend reading on the Ellen Macarthur Foundation, UN 17 sustainable development goals and Fashion Revolution.

Your current portfolio showcases some of your recent pattern designs for high-street brands such as Cras and Just Female, as well as with high-end brands like Vivienne Westwood. Talk us through the process of being commissioned when collaborating with brands – do you tend to design bespoke print designs, or tailor pre-existing designs to fit the company?

First I have to have a network of connections to be able to work as a freelance designer. When I work as a freelancer, I always have the company’s design DNA in mind. Who are their customers, which season, what should the print tell, what other colours are the company working with, should it be hand drawn or more graphic, just to name a few questions I ask myself.  Often there is a mood-board or a feeling that the company or brand want to express. It is my job to find the best solution for them. So then, when I have an idea, I start sketching or painting. Then I edit my work in Photoshop or Illustrator depending on the look. For a more graphic look, I work directly form illustrator. 

Often I do 3-5 prints so there are different options regarding style, colours, technique etc. There is always a dialogue in between to ensure no-one’s time is wasted. When everyone is happy, I set-up print files, and then the print is ready for production. There is a difference in which printing technique is being used as well. For example, there is the roll print method which is the most commercial way, and then there’s digital print, often used for smaller quantities.

Having previously worked in London, and being from Copenhagen, do you find that Copenhagen designs and fashion differs greatly from London designs and fashion? Are there any key similarities or differences?

Due to the heritage of Denmark and the Scandinavian countries, our fashion scene is more minimalistic and much more homogenous. Where London is a fashion capital with a border reach and a more bold fashion scene. I differently think that the UK fashion scene has more soul and spirit, where the Danish fashion scene is focusing more on sustainability and simplicity. With that being said, personal style can be found everywhere.Regarding print, UK has a long history for prints which are a part of the UK fashion history. We don’t have that in Denmark, and therefore we are more minimalistic in our print expression. 

In one of our previous conversations, you mentioned that you’ll soon start a brand new job as head of print design for Jacqueline De Yong – congratulations! This is undeniably an exciting time in your career. Will you continue to undertake freelance projects, too? 

Thank you so much, it is super exciting. Now is going to be more focused on collection building and creating a mood in the collections with prints. It’s going to be something completely different, also working with a brand that is working with the mass-market.

Hopefully I can make small changes, that pushes for a more sustainable future. 

It will be hard to find the balance to do freelance on the side. I will still work on my own personal projects, trying to mix fashion, print and statements. In my future projects, I would love to look more into circularity, zero waste and to minimize ink in prints.

You can find out more about Christian Astner at his website:

https://www.christianastner.com/