By Stuart Tingini
The fashion industry accounts for about 10% of global carbon emissions, and nearly 20% of wastewater. While the environmental impact of flying is now well known, fashion sucks up more energy than both aviation and shipping combined. That should concern all of us. This has all made sustainability in fashion one of the hottest topics in the fashion world. How do we deal with waste? How do we deal with over-consumption? How do we produce garments that aren’t harmful to the environment? How do we dress less, but look good? And so forth.
Clothing in general has complex supply chains that makes it difficult to account for all of the emissions that come from producing a pair of trousers or a new coat. Then there is how the clothing is transported and disposed of when the consumer no longer wants it anymore. One must make the distinction between “sustainable” and “ethical” fashion. A lot of fabrics may be made ethically, but they may not be sustainable products. The ethical aspect usually refers to how something is made, working conditions, and fair wages. Sustainable fashion is more concerned with the commercial strain, the environment and longevity. It is also important to note that some “organic” fabrics may not be sustainable at all, as with some organic cotton fabrics, which use a lot of water during their dye process.
While animal-derived materials such as leather and wool come with environmental and ethical concerns, vegan alternatives, which often contain synthetics, can also be harmful for our planet. Most consumer goods suffer from similar issues, what makes the fashion industry particularly problematic is the frenetic pace of change it not only undergoes, but encourages. With each passing season (or microseason), consumers are pushed into buying the latest items to stay on trend.
It’s hard to visualise all of the inputs that go into producing garments, but let’s take denim as an example. The UN estimates that a single pair of jeans requires a kilogram of cotton. And because cotton tends to be grown in dry environments, producing this kilo requires about 7,500–10,000 litres of water. That’s about 10 years’ worth of drinking water for one person. Staggering numbers. That’s why cutting CO2 emissions, dealing with the issue of overproduction, doing our best to reduce pollution and waste, supporting biodiversity, plus ensuring that garment workers are paid a fair wage and have safe working conditions, are all crucial to the sustainability matrix.
It’s not just cotton, but the synthetic polymer polyester that is the most common fabric used in clothing. Globally, “65% of the clothing that we wear is polymer-based”, says Lynn Wilson, an expert on the circular economy, who for her PhD research at the University of Glasgow is focusing on consumer behaviour related to clothing disposal.Around 70 million barrels of oil a year are used to make polyester fibres in our clothes. From waterproof jackets to delicate scarves, it’s extremely hard to get away from the stuff. Part of this stems from the convenience – polyester is easy to clean and durable. It is also lightweight and inexpensive.
But a shirt made from polyester has double the carbon footprint compared to one made from cotton. A polyester shirt produces the equivalent of 5.5kg of carbon dioxide compared to 2.1 from a cotton shirt. Considering the number of factors involved, there are still too few brands out there currently tackling all of these complex issues, and even those that are will admit that there’s always room for improvement. This means simply shopping for items labelled ‘sustainable’ is not enough; we need to completely rethink our purchasing habits and the way we consume clothes.
It may be a cliche, but the mantra “buy less and buy better” is key when you consider that a staggering 100 billion garments are being produced globally every year. Before making a purchase, sustainability consultancy Eco age’s chief brand officer Harriet Vocking advises that you ask yourself three all-important questions: “What are you buying and why? What do you really need? Will you wear it at least 30 times?”
With secondhand and vintage now increasingly accessible thanks to sites such as The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective, Depop and Vinted, consider buying pre-loved items when looking to add to your wardrobe. Not only will you extend the life of these garments and reduce the environmental impact of your wardrobe as a result, you can also find one-of-a-kind pieces that no one else will own.
Extending the life of your clothes is crucial when it comes to lowering the environmental footprint of your garments, and ensuring they don’t end up clogging landfill sites after just one or two wears. Ensure your clothes last as long as possible by not overwashing them (which will also lower your CO2 emissions and water consumption), as well as repairing them instead of throwing them out
Lastly, give your clothes a second life. When clearing out your closet, being conscious about how you dispose of your clothes will help stop them from ending up in landfill. Re-selling your clothes or organising a clothes swap is the best way to ensure they’ll have a second life, as well as donating to charities and organisations that are looking for used clothing. For worn-out pieces that can no longer be repaired or reused, look for recycling schemes specifically for those items, where possible.
Where clothing has been worn or damaged beyond repair, the most environmentally sound way of disposing of them is to send them for recycling. Clothing recycling is still relatively new for many fabrics but increasingly cotton and polyester clothing can now be turned into new clothes or other items. Some major manufacturers have now started using recycled fabrics, but it is often hard for consumers to find places to take their old clothes.
Many of the changes needed to make clothing more sustainable have to be implemented by the manufacturers and big companies that control the fashion industry. But as consumers the changes we all make in our behaviour not only add up, but can drive change in the industry, too.
Let’s all do our bit. For our beloved planet. For our future generation. While easily looking GOOD!
#SustainableFashion #EthicalFashion #PositiveFashion #Sustainability
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